Giovanni's Trattu Italian Restaurant Washington, DC review-post-html.htm

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Entertainment guide

Alexa Beattie, December 1999.

Giovanni's Trattu
1833 Jefferson Place, Washington DC
PHONE 202/4524960
Editors' Profile

When you go to Giovanni's Trattu, be sure to tuck an Italian phrase book in
your pocket. It's not that the staff doesn't speak perfect English, just that a
little bit of eavesdropping into the animated conversations between Giovanni
and guests will make a hunch all the more interesting.

Giovanni Viezzi, formerly manager at Cafe Milano, has taken over and
reopened Trattu after a two year hiatus, and neighbors are flocking to wish
him well. Giovanni takes time to chat, to offer a lemon liqueur, and, before
long, the 20 or so tables in the small basement restaurant might as well be
one. Perhaps it's Giovanni's easy Italian way that makes for the frolicsome
air or the fact that the food is just so plainly good that it's hard not to be swept
up into the merriment.
This is not a trendy spot. But like the food, it has just what it needs. Tables
are crisply dressed (flowers in the daytime, candles at night), and tapestried
banquettes down each long wall mean that conversation with the person next
to you comes easiiy should you wish to chat. Mirrors on the walls ensure that
anyone with his or her back to the room does not miss out on any of the
proceedings.

The beauty of this simple menu is a few-fold, Prices are reasonable, and
there's a strange satisfaction in seeing that they are rounded to the nearest
dollar. Also satisfying is the quick delivery to the table of bread and
rosemary-sprigged olive oil.

Antipasti are classics, Calamari, cooked to a perfect chewiness, are tossed in
lemon juice, black olives and oil ($6); bruschetta can either be served as it
usually is with tomato, basil and garlic ($4). or have it instead with a medley
of shitake, portobella and cremini mushrooms ($5). Antipasto Romano is as
good and as ample as always — proscuitto, mozzarella, grilled eggplant,
artichoke, olives, salami and more for a mere $7. The avocado with grilled,
butterflied shrimp is a treat for $6.

Some of the pasta is made in-house. The chefs special on the day we went
was pappardelle with seafood ín a lemon-butter wine sauce. Or have the
homemade gnocchi di patate with either a cream or tomato sauce ($9 at
lunch; $1 1 at dinner). Portions are more than generous and the ingredients
fresh. Basil from Trattu's kitchen tastes of summer even in December.
Secondi choices are heavy on the fish, veal and chicken. One old favorite —
with sage and proscuitto($13).

Be warned that this may not be a spot for a quiet date. Conversation is loud
and every few minutes, the espresso machine starts up its frantic screech.
But Dean Martin's "Volare" is on the radio, and if you ask, Giovanni will be
happy to turn it up,

- Alexa Beattie 12/23/99